pre 1995 Dodge ECM engine codes

The codes for Pre-1995 Dodge Trucks are retrieved from the ECM, by counting the check engine light flashes.
1.) Turn key on, off, on, off, on......and wait

Then the light will flash for example
On/off/on/OFF......On/off/on/off/on/OFF.............................
This will be a 23 code...

Then it will move on to the next code, until it flashes on a 55 code
on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off....on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/OFF...........
This will be the 55 code or end of message

So it will read like so
On/off/on/OFF......On/off/on/off/on/OFF............................................
on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off....on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/OFF...........
.




Below are the OBD DTC's for 1995-previous model year EFI-equipped Dodge vehicles.



11 camshaft signal or ignition signal, no reference signal during cranking

12 memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts

13 map sensor not detecting any change during test

14 map voltage too high or too low

15 vehicle speed sensor, no signal detected

16 knock sensor circuit. open or short detected

17 low engine temperature, possible thermostat fault

21 oxygen sensor signal, neither rich or lean detected

22 coolant sensor voltage low

23 air charge voltage high/low detected

24 throttle position sensor voltage high/low

25 automatic idle speed motor driver circuit, short or open detected

26 injectors 1,2,3 peak current not reached

27 injector control circuit does not respond to control signal

31 purge solenoid circuit, open or short detected

32 egr solenoid circuit, open or short detected

33 a/c clutch relay circuit, open or short detected

34 speed control servo solenoid, open or short detected

35 radiator fan control relay circuit, open or short detected

36 waste-gate solenoid, open or short detected

37 part throttle unlock(PTU) circuit, open or short detected

41 charging system circuit not responding to control signal

42 fuel pump or auto shutdown (ASD) relay voltage sensed at controller

43 ignition control circuit not responding

44 battery temperature voltage circuit problem

45 turbo boost limit exceeded-map sensor detects over-boost

46 battery voltage too high

47 battery voltage too low

51 air/fuel at limit

52 logic module fault

53 internal controller failure

54 camshaft reference circuit not detected

55 end of message

61 baro read solenoid, open or short detected

62 emr mileage not stored

63 eprom write denied

64 flex fuel sensor signal out of range

65 manifold tuning valve, open or short detected

66 no ccd messages

76 ballast bypass relay, open or short detected

77 speed control relay, open or short detected

Import Car Code Definition

1 oxygen sensor

2 crank engine sensor

3 air flow sensor

4 barometric pressure sensor

5 throttle positioner sensor

6 motor position sensor

7 engine coolant temperature sensor

8 no.1 cylinder tdc sensor

12 air flow sensor

13 air temperature sensor

14 throttle positioner sensor

15 sc motor position sensor

21 engine coolant temperature sensor

22 crank angle sensor

23 no.1 cylinder tdc sensor

24 vehicle speed sensor

25 barometric pressure sensor

31 knock sensor

32 manifold pressure sensor

36 ignition timing adjustment signal

39 oxygen sensor

41 injector

42 fuel pump

43 egr

44 ignition coil

52 ignition coil

53 ignition coil

55 iac valve position sensor

59 heated oxygen sensor

61 transaxle control unit cable

62 warm up control valve position sensor

Finding the number one position on Chevy HEI Distributor

1. First you must locate the number one cylinder. (This will be the drivers side plug, closest to the front of the engine.)

2. Remove the coil and distributor cap and have an assistant rotate the engine by using the starter. (observe the location and rotation of the rotor and the engine pulleys)

3. Now remove the furthest front spark plug on the drivers side of the car and lower a long screw driver into the hole.

4. Using a six point socket and a rachet. rotated the engine slowly in the direction the pulleys were spinning durring starter function. ( This will be an easier task with all of the spark plugs removed from the head )

5. Carefully watch the screwdriver for change in elevation with the rotation of the engine.

6. Observe the line marked on the harmonic balancer pulley. As this line approaches the teeth on the timing stand off, So will the piston be reaching the Top Dead Center (TDC) location, and so will the rotor be pointing nearest the #1 plug wire post.

7.Finally, the screw driver will reach its furthest "TOP" point, and under the valve cover, the two rockers to that cylinder will be loose (if you want to expose that)

8. Looking at the rotor and which post it is pointing at,eill expose the Number one position.

9. Back the timing line off the TDC mark by about six degrees , or three marks and twist the distributor itself into the position that lines the rotor up with a post towards the center of its twistable range.

10. Install the distributor cap and place number one wire on the post directly over the rotor tip. THAT IS WIRE ONE LOCATION

11. Following the direction of the rotor rotation, install wire eight, then four, three, six, five, seven , and two

Other usable tid=bits
In some cases, the cylinder number might be cast on the intake port right above the cylinder.

The distributor rotation may also be indicated, by having an arrow cast onto the intake manifold, near the distributor

1995 Chevrolet Silverado 350 Starter and alternator problems.! Slow engine cranking, poor charging.

Last week my friend bought a Chevrolet pick up truck from a used car lot. His daily driver had gone kaput, and he needed something fast, yet practical for hauling firewood. As a screaming deal he found a 1995 Z71. The dealer agreed to throw in a used alternator and starter because the engine was turning over extremely slow, and the voltage meter inside the truck was only reading 12.5 volts.

My friend picked me up from my house and took me to the local auto parts store to get some injector cleaner. The first mistake he made that day was shutting off the truck. When we came out to return to his house, the truck refused to start. He could not get the starter to turn fast enough to start the engine. With the alternator barely charging the battery, it was only a matter of minutes before the battery was dead as well.

With the used replacement starter in the truck, we went inside and bought a $3 wrench set. SAE. The starter has two 9/16" bolts that hold it in. A 1/2" nut holding the starter power wire in place, and a 5/16" nut holding the solenoid actuator wire in place. I removed the batteries positive connection to avoid shorting out the battery during removal of the starter.

After lowering the starter I was able to reach both the main power wire and the solenoid actuator wire. After removing that , the installation was the exact opposite of removal. The final step was re attaching the batteries positive, but the positive bolt was stripped. Inside the auto parts store they had the replacement stud for about $3 more dollars. I asked my friend if the battery ground was any good.

My literal question was "Does the ground only go to the body? Is there an engine ground?"

My friend replied by stating " There is a ground wire going to the fender, and a larger wire headed down under the engine"

It was then that we moved back to the starter for a culprit.

Having the second used starter in place, we turned the engine over and it turned even slower. Instead of getting a jump start, my friend bought a 800 cold cranking amp battery, to replace the starving 750 cold cranking amp battery. Low and behold, there was no change. The truck turned over even slower yet.

Then we took the original starter in the store to have the part numbers cross referenced. The starter was correct. We had the sales representative attach the starter to their bench tester. The starter had a good current draw, right smack dab in the middle of the needed values.

Now we are convinced that the starter , most likely needed shims, as Chevrolet was notorious for using shims. We bought a $3 Shim kit and placed the shims in .040 first allowing the truck to start.

When the truck started, we headed back to his house, where I continually lowered and raised the starter again, until placing .100 inches of shims under the starter. This did pull the starter away enough to get the engine to start. To aid in the starting of the vehicle, we retarded the ignition timing. This relieved the combustion pressure against the starter allowing for an easier spin of the fly wheel.

Then we moved on to changing the faulty alternator. A very simple 15 minute task. The used alternator seemed to put out less voltage than the original leaving us no option then to put the original back on.

The next day my friend was hot and bothered. Nothing that was logical seemed to fix the problem. So he took the truck back to the car lot. The lot attendant offered to take a quick look at the truck, and decided to put a jump box on the battery. Maybe there is just not enough power to start the truck.

Initially the jump box had no effect. The lot attendant had hooked the box directly to the battery. Then for some strange reason, the two of them decided to remove the battery from the circuit, using only the jump box to start the truck. This too had no effect. Then, low and behold, it came to my friend; We were always taught not to attach directly , battery to battery; So he instructed the lot attendant to power the red with the box, and land the black on the alternator mounting bracket.

BOOM! The truck breathed instant fire. The ground strap from the transmission bell housing to the firewall was not there. We need to remember that the engine mounts are rubber and do not allow for a good contact to ground. Painted transmissions, engine blocks and accessories all hinder a good ground path.

Then he looks again. Tracing the large black wire from the battery, to the attachment bolt. The large ground went to the frame, not the engine block. He moved the large ground to the power steering bracket, and added a frame ground. The starter is working like new, and the alternator is able to put out a full charge.

It seems that the engine was changed, and the ground was never placed back on. The starter had a parts house sticker, as did the alternator. Both of these parts were replaced as well. The person who changed the engine must have gotten paranoid about crank bearings and traded that truck in. The truck is in excellent condition with low miles. Poor installation left somebody believing it was a bad buy.